Messages from Manu. |
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Update: lack of internet + busy schedule = very little time for blogging. However, I’m now in the “land of WiFi” - Aguas calientes currently & returning back to Cusco tomorrow [at time of writing], so I’ll be using this time to write some blog posts which have been in the pipeline for some time now. I’ve learnt so much over the last 7 weeks, ranging from how the international gold trade is fuelling human trafficking and child prostitution to more positive stories about how “bio-gardens” can prevent anemia in young mothers and their children. It may be hard to see how these issues are linked with species conservation, but what I’ve come to realise during my time here in Peru is that every environmental problem has a link to a humanitarian issue, notably extreme poverty and/or ill-health. And sadly most issues have been caused, or certainly escalated, by western demands. 26th June 2018 Over the last few days I’ve been pretty sick, not quite bed bound but certainly needing some TLC. From what I've heard illness is just an everyday occurrence when living in the rainforest, you just have to cross your fingers it's not serious, and do someone else's washing up shift in return for a weeks worth of (probably out-of-date) antibiotics. If I was tucked up in bed surrounded by home comforts and a stack of films then I wouldn’t be complaining, but sadly that’s not the case, far from it. However, turning a negative into a positive, it has given me plenty of time to get my teeth stuck into some reading. As with any project in a challenging environment there’s always going to be things you have to adapt to, so instead of my initial blog post idea I’m going to give you a brief introduction to the history of conservation - trust me, it’s (hopefully) more interesting than you might initially think. GLOBAL HISTORY For decades conservationists focused on “flagship species” such as giant panda, tiger and polar bear, hoping to capture the attention of the general public. Even though this technique worked very effectively and saw a huge increase in donations it was totally misrepresenting the situation; the natural world is so tightly intertwined that you cannot simply conserve some species and not others. Instead of conserving species, we needed to protect the ecosystems they receded in. In the 1980s this became the main focus for conservationists - if we can protect ecosystems from human interference then biodiversity levels will increase. This became known as “fortress conservation” and in principal was logical, but also had major setbacks. The movement saw a problem arise - neoliberalism. Wealthy organisations from western countries would buy relatively cheap land in biodiversity-rich places in the developing world. Dubbed “land grabbing” this was not appreciated by local communities, understandably. After all, it wasn't dealing with the cause of the problem, only trying to halt the effect. Today, despite the huge challenges conservationists are facing globally, we have found a more fruitful solution, accepting that people are an inherent part of nature and they therefore must be part of the solution. The involvement and support of local communities in conservation is essential, and this is something strongly advocated here in Manu by many NGOs and environmental groups. LOCAL HISTORY In the 1950s the Peruvian government gave Andean communities economic incentives to move closer to the Brazilian border, and into more remote tropical locations. The government hoped this would give better security for the Peru-Brazil border, but more likely it allowed for convenient access to resource-rich regions of the Peruvian Amazon. Just an hours boat ride upstream from the MLC is Salvacion - one of the (relatively) newly established towns. This region of Peru - Madre de Dios - has the 2nd highest rate of deforestation in Peru, and equally high levels of illegal gold mining and slash & burn for coca plantations. I'm based in the buffer zone of Manu National Park where coca cultivation and narco-traffiking is rife - the UN estimate that there's 809 hectares of coca in this area alone. With corruption in the government and police across the board it’s no wonder why illegal activity is so prevalent and can continue without opposition. NEW TIMES AHEAD A fantastic way of creative positive change is through reaching out to communities, like the people of Salvacion, and providing alternatives to the more destructive illegal activities common in this area. Our very own site manager, Juve, used to be a gold miner further downstream; he now runs the research site and works the bar for nature-loving tourists on Saturday nights. How things can change. As with anything though, there’s problems, and ecotourism is no exception. Bye for now.
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So I knew the internet situation was going to be poor, but I don’t think I was fully aware of just how remote I was going to be. Every morning upon waking to the calls of Howler Monkeys and Yellow-crowned Parrots I have to remind myself of the reality that is so hard to take in. For those of you who don’t know I am currently living at a research base in the buffer zone of Manu National Park, Eastern Peru. It’s known to be one of the most biodiverse places on earth, not only providing refuge for a myriad of bird, mammal and plant species, but also for numerous uncontacted tribes living in the north of the park. As you can imagine with such a remote location the journey here was quite an experience. I can only describe it as a mix between Ice-road truckers, Jurassic Park and a Top Gear Challenge. We left Cusco before sunrise, passing through the community of Oropesa, and slowly making our way along increasingly narrow roads into the high Andes. After 8 hours driving we arrived at Sapan Sachayoc, a lodge located in the cloud forest - an ideal habitat for Peru’s National Bird, Cock-of-the-Rock. Some patience was required but after not too long we were graced with the presence of three of these beautifully exotic yet comical birds. Our journey continued to Atalaya the following morning. This village marked the furthest point we could go in our vehicle; essentially the end of the road. Our belongings were offloaded and transferred onto a motorised canoe for the remainder of the journey. With every minute passed we entered further in the Amazon, and further away from modern society. A thought which was refreshing and scary at the same time. The initial fears are still valid, and reinforced daily. Whether its a venomous snake sighting in camp, or a researcher becoming ill with a parasite, the trials and tribulations of jungle life are always surfacing, but almost two weeks after arriving this small corner of Peru is starting to feel more like home by the day. The centre I’m based at is nothing like I’ve ever experienced. Every person is filled with so much knowledge and infectious passion about their specialist topics, sharing their latest findings in presentations most evenings. It’s a hive of activity both day and night and one things for sure, never in my life did I think I’d be having candle-lit salsa lessons in the middle of the Amazon Rainforest.
Anyway, my wifi is about to end so I shall leave it there. |
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