Messages from Manu. |
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Exposé blog series [1/2] exploring the relationship between western demands and illegal supply chains in a new age of transnational trade, unearthing how one particular industry is inciting gold-digging within the Manu Biosphere Reserve - one of the most species-rich places in the world. South America has long been known for its toxic trade in illegal narcotics, with Peru being the single largest producer and exporter of cocaine in the world. However, during the first decade of the 21st Century a competing industry began to surface, bloodying the hands of the blissfully ignorant west and pushing the innocent further into the murky world of illicit, organised crime. This industry was the gold trade. I am currently situated in the buffer zone between Manu National Park and the Amarakaeri communal reserve, within the region of Madre de Dios - a hotspot for so-called “wildcat mining”. According to the Global Initiative Against Transnational Organised Crime (GIATOC) 90% of the gold produced in the province of Madre de Dios is extracted illegally, with a similar percentage of local communities relying directly on the industry. But what makes this region so lucrative? In the late 2000s two trends converged - the economic crisis of 2007-08 saw the price of gold rise by 300%, whilst ‘Plan Colombia’ and the US ‘War on Drugs’ escalated, putting criminal groups, and their industry, under increasing pressure. And when one door closes… Just hours downstream from where I’m staying, the town of Boca Colorado is found; small-scale, artisanal mines litter the landscape, eating into Peru’s last remaining wild spaces. Of course, the most obvious symptom of this industry is deforestation, but perhaps the most devastating impact is that of pollution. In May 2016 Peru’s [then outgoing] government declared a “state of emergency” for the region, with an estimated 30 - 40 tons of mercury entering the waterways every year. Mercury, which is used during the amalgamation process to recover and separate gold, poses a severe health risk to local communities. Hillary Fenrich, who works at a biological field station in the Madre de Dios region, is keen for education of this issue. “I don’t know if you guys know but there’s a lot of people that die during gold mining” she says in a concerned, almost apologetic tone. “They die because they’re standing in mercury, and because of the really hot working conditions, they’re usually standing naked.” Although this may not be the case for everyone, with levels of mercury 34 times the safe limit its clear to see why the region’s life expectancy is so low. This pollution not only affects those involved in the mining process, but due to bioaccumulation in the river ecosystem, many communities are being poisoned by the fish they catch and consume. Sadly, the horrors of this industry go beyond indirect impacts, and Hillary revealed to me something which was truly shocking. In a process known locally as aprovechando, translated as "taking advantage of", the industry is exploiting the most vulnerable members of society, as Hillary explains: “They’re taking advantage of kids, mostly guys. They [the bosses] say yeah we’ll pay you at the end of next week, but next week comes around and you don’t get paid. And they never pay you. You get madder and madder until the boss says lets take a walk and I’ll pay you. You go with him, and he shoots you. That’s why I say it’s like the wild wild west out there. I was talking to a boat driver from further downstream, and he told me that he saw 3 people shot in the street during the first month of living there.” In this instance, it’s important to make a clear distinction between the criminal mafia involved in the trafficking and distribution of illegal gold, and those being exploited during the production process. Sadly there is a strong link between illegal gold mining, human trafficking and sexual exploitation. In a report by the previously mentioned GIATOC it was revealed that recruiters “make false promises of high wages and legitimate work” to young girls, typically between the ages of 13 and 17, but upon arrival to the mining camps they are stripped of their possessions. With no food, accommodation or journey home their fate in the sex industry is almost inevitable. The report also reads “Even if they do have the money, many boat and car drivers who transport people to and from the camps are complicit with brothel owners and human traffickers.” It is estimated that there are 2,000 sex workers in the illegal gold mining town of Delta 1 alone, situated between Boca Colorado and the Mina Huaypetue Mine (image above). Of these, 60% are minors.
Along the Alto Madre de Dios river there are a number of river-side communities, my closest being the town of Salvacion. I visit the community every week. It’s a vibrant and friendly town but if you look carefully the signs are there, quite literally. Coming across a poster warning of human trafficking in such a seemingly quiet town is a very surreal experience. Sometimes it’s hard to make a connection linking my actions as a westerner, and the effects of those actions upon small, remote communities like the ones here in the Madre de Dios region. But now it’s practically on my doorstep it’s hard to ignore. These transnational relationships really interest me, but the fact I had to come all this way, practically to the other side of the globe, to learn about these problems makes me wonder - who is driving this exploitation? And for those making the profit, is silence truly golden? Until next time.
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Rare spider monkeys have found refuge in a once logged but now regenerating rainforest in the buffer zone of Manu National Park, Eastern Peru. “Be careful and watch where you put your hands!” shouts Bethan - fellow wildlife enthusiast - as she hurdles a fallen tree, rotting and covered in a thick blanket of moss - an ideal snake habitat. We are off-trail and following the calls of a spider monkey family deep into the rainforest interior. This endangered species have returned to an area of regenerating secondary rainforest, which just 30 years ago was used intensively for cattle grazing and growing crops. These creatures are characterised by their long spider-like limbs and jet black colouration, but most notably their prehensile tail capable of grasping branches and acting as an extra arm whilst swinging through the rainforest canopy - perfect for their arboreal lifestyle. Above our heads beams of light break through the darkness of the understory; leaves are set alight by the sun’s rays as they fall to the ground, hinting that our furry cousins must be close. Spider monkeys live in groups of 30-50 individuals but mostly forage in subgroups during the day, depending on social group dynamics and food availability. Groups are matriarchal, led by an alpha female who controls all the troop’s subgroups. They are said to be the most intelligent New World monkey, with complex vocalisations and strong emotional bonds between individuals. The species has declined by 50% over the last 45 years, currently listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. This region of Peru - Manu Biosphere Reserve - is experiencing devastating habitat loss, with illegal gold mining polluting the waterways and the agricultural frontier pushing further and further into Peru’s remaining primary forests. Luckily, these spider monkeys have allies who are refusing to stand down. The Crees Foundation have been working tirelessly for the last decade to protect their 650 hectare reserve from the threat of hunters and illegal loggers. Life is returning, in full force. Today, 87% of species have returned, proving that there is still hope for the future of the Amazon. Stefanie Rog (PhD), Researcher Coordinator at the Crees Foundation, is optimistic about the future. “I’m just really excited, even to make a small change. Together you’re stronger so I’m hoping that all these small initiatives will add up” she says, eyes bright and smiling widely. Many conservationists don’t have this positive stance; Stefanie thinks this has affected the younger generations, creating a culture of inaction. She believes that the younger generation are “often apathetic” as they don’t believe in it anymore. “They think the world's just going to be messed up anyway” said Stefanie. “So they just eat burgers and throw straws into the sea.” Her humour visible but highlighting an important point, and one which Crees is passionate about addressing - to make people care about the natural world, first you have to inspire them, and then you have to empower them to make a difference. As I follow Bethan over the fallen tree, placing my hands and feet in the same safe spots as she did, I suddenly feel an overwhelming sense of discovery. Hours of sweaty trekking and bug swatting have brought me to this very moment, and as I look up, eyes to the sky, it’s all finally worth it.
Update: lack of internet + busy schedule = very little time for blogging. However, I’m now in the “land of WiFi” - Aguas calientes currently & returning back to Cusco tomorrow [at time of writing], so I’ll be using this time to write some blog posts which have been in the pipeline for some time now. I’ve learnt so much over the last 7 weeks, ranging from how the international gold trade is fuelling human trafficking and child prostitution to more positive stories about how “bio-gardens” can prevent anemia in young mothers and their children. It may be hard to see how these issues are linked with species conservation, but what I’ve come to realise during my time here in Peru is that every environmental problem has a link to a humanitarian issue, notably extreme poverty and/or ill-health. And sadly most issues have been caused, or certainly escalated, by western demands. 26th June 2018 Over the last few days I’ve been pretty sick, not quite bed bound but certainly needing some TLC. From what I've heard illness is just an everyday occurrence when living in the rainforest, you just have to cross your fingers it's not serious, and do someone else's washing up shift in return for a weeks worth of (probably out-of-date) antibiotics. If I was tucked up in bed surrounded by home comforts and a stack of films then I wouldn’t be complaining, but sadly that’s not the case, far from it. However, turning a negative into a positive, it has given me plenty of time to get my teeth stuck into some reading. As with any project in a challenging environment there’s always going to be things you have to adapt to, so instead of my initial blog post idea I’m going to give you a brief introduction to the history of conservation - trust me, it’s (hopefully) more interesting than you might initially think. GLOBAL HISTORY For decades conservationists focused on “flagship species” such as giant panda, tiger and polar bear, hoping to capture the attention of the general public. Even though this technique worked very effectively and saw a huge increase in donations it was totally misrepresenting the situation; the natural world is so tightly intertwined that you cannot simply conserve some species and not others. Instead of conserving species, we needed to protect the ecosystems they receded in. In the 1980s this became the main focus for conservationists - if we can protect ecosystems from human interference then biodiversity levels will increase. This became known as “fortress conservation” and in principal was logical, but also had major setbacks. The movement saw a problem arise - neoliberalism. Wealthy organisations from western countries would buy relatively cheap land in biodiversity-rich places in the developing world. Dubbed “land grabbing” this was not appreciated by local communities, understandably. After all, it wasn't dealing with the cause of the problem, only trying to halt the effect. Today, despite the huge challenges conservationists are facing globally, we have found a more fruitful solution, accepting that people are an inherent part of nature and they therefore must be part of the solution. The involvement and support of local communities in conservation is essential, and this is something strongly advocated here in Manu by many NGOs and environmental groups. LOCAL HISTORY In the 1950s the Peruvian government gave Andean communities economic incentives to move closer to the Brazilian border, and into more remote tropical locations. The government hoped this would give better security for the Peru-Brazil border, but more likely it allowed for convenient access to resource-rich regions of the Peruvian Amazon. Just an hours boat ride upstream from the MLC is Salvacion - one of the (relatively) newly established towns. This region of Peru - Madre de Dios - has the 2nd highest rate of deforestation in Peru, and equally high levels of illegal gold mining and slash & burn for coca plantations. I'm based in the buffer zone of Manu National Park where coca cultivation and narco-traffiking is rife - the UN estimate that there's 809 hectares of coca in this area alone. With corruption in the government and police across the board it’s no wonder why illegal activity is so prevalent and can continue without opposition. NEW TIMES AHEAD A fantastic way of creative positive change is through reaching out to communities, like the people of Salvacion, and providing alternatives to the more destructive illegal activities common in this area. Our very own site manager, Juve, used to be a gold miner further downstream; he now runs the research site and works the bar for nature-loving tourists on Saturday nights. How things can change. As with anything though, there’s problems, and ecotourism is no exception. Bye for now. |
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